Cartier Is Staging a Historic Exhibit at the V&A in London
Beginning April 11, the Victoria and Albert Museum in London will play host to an extensive display made up of 350 of Cartier’s most iconic, rare, and never-before-seen pieces, marking the first major exhibit for the maison in 30 years. Framed by the house’s relationship with the U.K., the immersive experience illustrates artistic excellence, savior faire, and skilled craftsmanship from around the world.
Though Cartier is officially a French house founded by Louis-François Cartier in 1847, it had established itself as a global phenomenon within less than 50 years. Following its inception, the three sons, Pierre, Louis, and Jacques, quickly branched out beginning flagships with unique workshops in Paris, New York, and London. Founded by the youngest of the three, Jacques Cartier, the London salon opened its doors in 1902. The British outpost rapidly gained clients at the highest levels of aristocracy and society, even becoming the official jewelers of the Royal Family.
In addition to the upper crust of British society, Cartier has cemented itself as the top jeweler for celebrities from Grace Kelly and Elizabeth Taylor to Elton John and Freddie Mercury to Rihanna. Now, many of these royal and celebrity adorned pieces will be on display to the public. The jewels, watches, and objects are composed of a thoughtful curation from both Cartier and the V&A’s archives. Additionally, pieces have been loaned from clients’ private collections including His Majesty The King making this a once-in-a-lifetime occasion.
The exhibition is a labor of love. The V&A initially approached the maison to begin working on this show together over 10 years ago. Once inside, you are fully transported into the world of Cartier from intimate family photographs to previously unseen drawings of early works. Next, a room filled with pieces dating back to the early 1900’s tells the story of how Jacques Cartier worked with the Maharajas to create extraordinary necklaces made of the rarest colored diamonds.
Other magnificent pieces include the Williamson diamond brooch commissioned by Queen Elizabeth II in 1953, which features the rare 23.6 carat pink Williamson diamond; Grace Kelly’s engagement ring from the Monaco Princely Palace collection; and the majestic Manchester tiara from the V&A collection, which was made in 1903 for the Dowager Duchess of Manchester. The collection of panther jewels, one of Cartier’s most recognizable symbols, is displayed in an intricate case in all of its many forms. One of my personal standouts is the tiara room where 18 exquisite head ornaments communicate the stories of both the wearer and the piece’s contemporary society.
Prior to the public opening, Pierre Rainero, the image, style, and heritage director for Cartier, regaled me with insider stories of the brand in Hollywood. Apparently on the set of the movie Son of Sheik, Rudolf Valentino insisted on keeping the Tank watch he wore on screen. Likewise, María Félix’s famous 1968 life-size snake necklace was so large that she kept it as a decorative object in her home. When the necklace was eventually given to an exhibition in Mexico City in 1999, upon first sight, the iconic actress lamented that the beloved snake hadn’t been posed in the correct “attack position.” As the story goes, Félix even went so far as to call in the curators before the grand opening to fix the error.
From the richly historic aristocratic classes to private clientele and eccentric movie stars, each display aptly demonstrates how Cartier has permeated all echelons of culture. The immersive experience tells a story of the maison’s history that you are unlikely to find anywhere else. The exhibit will be open through November 16, 2025. For jewelry lovers this is a must see and is certainly worth quick a hop across the pond.